Installation always depends on the particular situation. Is it an installation in a new house with no roof and no internal walls - or is it an installation in an already inhabited attic? Is it a house with tiles or is it a house with 100 year old slate? Different roofing materials require different flashings, which require specific ways of installation.

The below installation instruction is showing an outside-in sequence, but it is also possible to make roof opening inside-out. Using snow guard above your roof window is always recommended to prevent permanent damage. 

Removing battens

1 A.

Removing battens

Remove battens to the extent of the framed area.

1 B.

The aperture on the roof must be at least 6 cms wider and 12,5 cms (for tile roofing) higher then the outer size of the window.

2 A.

Cutting the underlay

Cut out the roofing underlay.

3 A.

Fixing the underlay

The underlay may be fixed with staples.

3 B.

Cut the excess part of underlay.

4 A.

Fasten a batten

Determine the correct height of the window installation (for tile roofing only).

4 B.

Fasten a batten to support the window frame.

4 C.

The batten must be levelled, and positioned 8 cms above tiles.

5 A.

Fixing the underlay

Fasten a batten to support the top part of the window frame, and fix the underlay all over.

6 A.

Separate sash from frame

To install the frame, it must first be separated from the sash. Open the sash. Dismount gasspring by gently pulling up with a screwdriver (only KHV).

7 A.

Placing brackets

Unlocking the hinge: Locate and press the locking mechanism on each hinge (it should make a click) and separate the sash from the frame.

Once the hinges are released, carefully separate the sash and place aside to a safe place.

7 B.

Fix the provided brackets with the screws.

Placing IFC

8 A.

Placing IFC

Remove the paper tape from IFC and place it on the outer side of the frame! Pay attention to the positioning at the corners and along the edges!

8 B.

Fix the corners with the preapplied glue.

9 A.

Installing the frame

Carefully pass the frame (with brackets fixed) through the opening. Place the frame onto the support battens.

10 A.

Check frame alignment

If the frame is in level, fix the bottom brackets.

11 A.

Final alignment check

Replace the sash to test that it opens and closes properly.

11 B.

Reinstall gassprings (only Dakea Best).

11 C.

To make sure the frame is set properly check the gaps at the closure of the sash. 

11 D.

If the vertical gaps are parallel as well as the gap at the bottom in slightly opened position, then the frame is correctly aligned, and the top brackets can be fixed.

11 E.

A plastic wedge is supplied to lift the bracket where there is an uneven rafter.

11 F.

Secure all the brackets with the screws.

12 A.

Remove the sash!

Remove the sash once more to continue with the installation. Remember to push in the locking pin on each hinge. Support the weight of the sash underneath whilst dislocating the hinges and carefully place back inside roof.

Attaching RUC

13 A.

Attaching RUC

First the RUC needs to be adjusted to the upper corners of the frame.

13 B.

RUC has to be stretched around the complete frame.

13 C.

Fix the RUC to the outer frame with staples.

13 D.

It is necessary to fix the top of the RUC underneath the existing roof underlay. If the roof is counter-battened, it may be necessary to remove a small section of the batten in order to slide the drainage gutter and RUC into place. Cut the existing underlay over the rafter to allow the top of the RUC to be slid underneath.

13 E.

Loosen (or de-nail) the batten below the frame in order to be able to slide the RUC underneath it.

13 F.

When fixing the sides, make sure you cut and tightly fix around roof battens.

13 G.

Install flashing bottom

14 A.

Install flashing bottom

Fix the bottom flashing section to the frame.

14 B.

Fit bottom cover.

14 C.

Using your hands, press and smooth the apron to the contours of the tiles. If necessary, a rubber mallet may be carefully used to shape the apron.

15 A.

Fit side flashing

Fit the side flashing sections.

15 B.

Make sure the side flashing section interlocks properly into the bottom section. Bend the flappers of the bottompart to fix the sides.

15 C.

Fasten the flashing side parts to battens using the provided clips.

16 A.

Fit side cover parts

Fit side cover parts.

16 B.

Fix side cover parts using the provided screws.

17 A.

Fit top cover

Fit top cover part, fix it with the provided screws.

18 A.

Fix top flashing

Fix the top flashing section. It should sit tightly over the existing top window cover part.

18 B.

Fasten the top flashing section using the flappers on side cover parts.

19 A.

Replace tiles to the side

Replace tiles. In order to avoid having a gap between the bent foam and the tile junctions, it is recommended to slit the foam right above each tile.

20 A.

Ensure tiles fit

You are likely to need to cut the tiles on one side of the frame to make a perfect fit. Ensuring the gap is within the recommended tolerances (30-60 mm on the sides, 60-150 on the top).

21 A.

Replace sash

Replace the sash in frame. 

21 B.

Fix the gassprings (only Dakea Best).

22 A.

Job done

That's it! You have now installed your roof window.